The Italian Riviera. That just sounds so glamorous. I imagined yachts and fancy hotels that might be more for show than relaxation. I’m also not a beach person, so when my husband Jim and I planned a trip to Italy for our 25th anniversary I was not thinking about the Italian Riviera or any riviera for that matter. I knew we wanted to fly in and out of Florence because it’s such an easy airport and city to base out of, so we started searching for things that were more of a day trip than a base.
My husband loves to fish and be around water in general (yes opposites do attract and stay attracted) and I started noticing in my searches phrases like “idyllic fishing villages” and “romantic sunsets” and I started thinking what could be more perfect than a trip to Florence with a side trip to see the coast of Italy.
The Italian Riviera is a crescent-shaped strip of Mediterranean coastline between the south of France and Tuscany (Italy). It’s eastern half, the Riviera di Levante, is made up of turquoise coves, rugged cliffs and candy-colored seaside villages which include the Cinque Terre fishing villages. This is where we decided to spend a week of our anniversary trip. It was magical.
After an exhaustive search we decided to stay in Monterosso. We found a beautiful little hotel that was on the water (more on that later) and let the adventures begin.
Monterosso has the feel of a sleepy seaside village. You can walk down to the sea to watch the fishing boats come and go, dip your toes in the pebbly sand, smell the fresh sea air. Just being there lowered my blood pressure. There’s no traffic noise and everything feels so clean and fresh. Huge lemons weigh down the branches of trees. Cool breezes blow off the water and swirl a scent of citrus through the air. Wander the town and you will find ristorantes and coffee bars, souvenir shops, churches that take your breath away, hiking paths to follow through the town and to places beyond. It’s so civilized but simple. We were there in early April, which is still a bit off-season and perfect for us.
When we first arrived we ditched our suitcases and wandered. We found a coffee bar that also served wine. We ordered wine and wound up with a carafe of a lovely red. There we sat for hours, sipping wine, looking out to the sea, taking in the daily life of the little village of Monterosso. That’s a memory that will be with me forever–that day with my husband in Monterosso. It was a feeling that life really doesn’t get much better than this. You might laugh and call it a wine buzz, but there are just moments in your life that you know are etched on your heart forever. That simple moment was one of them.
TRAINS
I love the Italian Rail system. It’s so easy to get around in Italy for even the most novice of travelers. If you can read, you can ride the Italian trains. Just be patient and organized and watch the train boards at the station. To get to the Cinque Terre, you take a Regionale train from Florence to La Spezia. There are four platforms at La Spezia station. It’s one of the end points on the Parma-La Spezia line, as well as a stop on the Genoa-Pisa line. The latter includes stops in the five villages of Cinque Terre. Some of the trains that pass through La Spezia en route to Genoa stop at every town in Cinque Terre, while others only stop at one or two, so be sure to check your ticket to make sure your train stops in the village where you’re staying. If it doesn’t you can simply jump on the next train between the villages. Travel tip: book trains with only 1 stop so you don’t have to schlep your bags off and on several trains. Use the Trainline App or Italia Rail website to find your train tickets and travel info. See below for how to look up the trains on the Trainline app.
I’ve been to Italy dozens of times and have always heard about the train strikes but have been lucky enough to never encounter one–until this trip. We were lucky enough to make it to Monterosso, but once we got there the little train that runs between the CT villages was not running. This is not a place where you can just walk up and get a taxi to Vernazza. You’re in the middle of the Cinque Terre National Park and there are some very steep cliffs that are very hard on a motor vehicle, so a car is a bit of a luxury, not the norm. There were a few taxis that did run between the towns but they were very hard to find and expensive.
Once we’d explored Monterosso for a few days, we decided to ask our hotel proprietor about the hike to the next village. She looked me up and down and in typical Italian generosity stated “you can make it”. I should say I’m not a hiker. I’m not athletic but I am up for a challenge. My body isn’t always able to cash the checks my mind writes though–if you know what I mean. The one drawback of staying in Monterosso if you are not a hiker is that IF there is a train strike and you want to get to the nearest village (Vernazza) it is a “skilled” hike. We weren’t sure exactly what that meant, but how hard could it be?
Buoyed with confidence from our hotel host, off we went to visit Vernazza. The walk was beautiful with breathtaking views of the sea, the other villages in the distance, the green hillsides. The trail winds along the rocky cliffs clinging to the sea and then makes it’s way zig-zagging across terraced “hills”.
Midway through our trek, the weather turned and the gentle breeze turned into a gale. The quaint rocky trail grew narrower and less civilized-looking and Vernazza looked really far away, so at that point we decided to turn back. The problem was, when we got there we would have to hike back unless the trains magically started up again. All in all, it was worth it. We got some really beautiful photos and felt like we had earned another carafe of wine.
EAT
The food in Monterosso was so good! The seafood was fresh out of the water. We loved the scampi risotto at Restaurante Ciak . It came in a large earthen wok that kept it warm throughout the meal. They have various seafood starters as well that did not disappoint. Good atmosphere and friendly staff made for a great dining experience — and the prices were great too.
SEE
For a less adventurous hike but a beautiful view, walk from the sea up to the Church of San Francesco. It’s an uphill walk that will make you stop and catch your breath a few times, but you’ll pass lemon trees and get a great perspective of your surroundings. As we got closer to the convent, we heard chanting and singing and were able to enter the tiny chapel where the singing echoed through the walls. It was magical. There’s a beautiful cemetery there which makes one wonder if the funeral procession walks up the incline with the body? What a lovely place to rest at the end of your life. https://conventomonterosso.it/
STAY
We really enjoyed our stay at Hotel Pasquale. It’s a seafront hotel with really lovely updated rooms, a good breakfast and really helpful staff. We had a balcony that was an added bonus that we enjoyed. The pricing was excellent as well. There are numerous Airbnb’s in the area to consider as well. Be sure to read the reviews to make sure you’re prepared for how accessible the rental may be. Many places in the CT are up in the hills, which adds to the charm but may add a lot of steps each time you’re coming and going from your rental.
I wholeheartedly recommend a visit to the Cinque Terre. My husband and I both absolutely loved it and plan to go back soon. We loved the laid-back vibe, the great food, the always kind Italians and proximity to Florence, Milan and other key cities in northern Italy. It would be a great starting or ending point for anyone who wants to continue to the rest of the Riviera as well.
Ciao for now! Happy traveling!
Life is a journey 