My favorite hilltowns of Italy: Pienza

Pienza landscape from a distance

Pienza is a small hilltop village in the beautiful Val d’Orcia.  The drive in is lovely as the winding road reveals a sight that may look familiar–it was the filming location of Franco Zeffirelli’s ‘Romeo and Juliet’.

Pienza is located on the crest of a hill overlooking the Val d’Orcia.  It was established in the medieval period as Corsignano. The town was renamed and redesigned in the late 15th century to articulate the vision of a local named Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who became a leading humanist before being elected as Pope in 1458.  Pienza’s narrow winding streets lead to an historic central square  where you can find the beautiful Palazzo Piccolomini which belonged to the pope’s family,  the cathedral and town hall.  The ‘centro storico’ is now a Unesco World Heritage Site.

PARK

The historical center is for pedestrian traffic only but large, pay and display parking spaces are available just outside the city walls. Look for the signs with the uppercase P for parking.  Bring coins.  It’s an easy walk from the parking to the city.  Pienza is overall flat and doesn’t pose any particular mobility issues. If you are visiting with kids, a stroller here is ok.

SEE

The Cathedral is a must see in Pienza. It’s a truly beautiful place with soaring ceilings, Germanic influenced design and many iconic pieces of art. You’ll find it at the historic city center, clinging to the edge of this sleepy Tuscan town.   As your wander through the beautiful space, so full of light, look for the Piccolomini influence in the crescent moons throughout the cathedral and the town.     Those crescent moons can also be found in the spectacular Duomo of Siena.  

Notice how the floor slopes as you wander the church.  Look down and check out the giant cracks in the floor.  The cracks were apparently there when the church was completed in 1462.  The 560ish year old beauty is still hanging in there and again a must see for Pienza and Tuscany.   Age is after all, just a number.  

Travel Tip:  Before you visit Pienza be sure to watch Zeffirelli’s Romeo and Juliet.  Palazzo Piccolomini is the home of Juliet Capulet. 

TASTE

I love to eat at Trattoria Latte di Luna.  It’s always a great stop for a nice relaxing lunch. The local pastas and wines are wonderful.   

As you wander the town, be sure to stop and taste the famous local cheese.  Pecorino and some local honey will have you filling your suitcase or investigating ways to ship some home. Outside the town there are local farms where you can try and buy and maybe you’ll get to meet the sheep who produce these tasty memorable cheeses.  

STAY

I’ve always done daytrips in and out of Pienza but have stopped for drinks at La Bandita Townhouse.  It is a really cool hotel, with a great location and lovely restaurant.    I plan to stay there on my next trip. 

 

To visit Pienza, you really need a car. There are buses that will get you there or close, but it’s a lovely area to rent a car and see a bit of the real Tuscany. The Val d’Orcia is a magical place to get lost, wander, discover–the people are friendly, the food is amazing and there are photo opportunities around every corner.

Route suggestions: From the village of Pienza, follow the SP146 through the beautiful rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside, heading to Montepulciano. There you’ve got to have some local wine and maybe spend a night to explore the town and amazing Church of San Biagio. From Montepulciano, follow the iconic cypress winding road to La Foce. La Foce is another great place to base out of. The gardens are so beautiful and you can get some really iconic photos from there!

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