Venice

Venice is hard to describe in words but I’ll do my best to do it justice. Venice is a place you have to experience. I like it when it’s the off-season and the crowds are more sparse. I like it on a misty day when the lagoon looks otherworldly and infinite. I like to get lost in Venice–ditch the map and just wander. That’s when you discover the magic of Venice.

I’ve been to Venice a few times, most recently in April 2022. It’s a really fascinating place. Where else do you see a water ambulance bringing an ancient Venetian woman home from the hospital, her stretcher and iv gently lifted off the boat or a young couple who appears to be moving, all their worldly goods stacked precariously high on the boat equivalent of a moving truck. I believe the Venetians must be some type of super species, living with millions of tourists wandering through their “back yards”, impermanently torn between the ebb and flow of humanity and tide–one part resilience and 2 parts resignation? They seem to embrace the miracle and absurdity of their little island home.

Venice began as a refuge for people fleeing their homes to avoid barbarian conquerors in the 5th century. A marshy lagoon, located just off the mainland, protected them from the barbarians who would not cross the water. As invasions continued across Italy more and more people fled until eventually they realized there was a need for a new city. They began to dig canals and using wooden planks to fortify the banks and create foundations for buildings. They hammered thousands of wooden piles into the mud, each one touching the next until they cut the tops off to reveal a solid wooden platform. These platforms are still below many of the buildings you see today. Silt and salt blasted the underwater wood for years, petrifying it to a nearly stone-like state. When you think about it, it just doesn’t seem possible or real, like it will feel like some freakish type of amusement part, but it doesn’t. It’s a beautiful hive of activity, surrounded by water, accessed by bridges and more bridges, resilient and alive. It’s a place of beauty and mystery.

SEE

There’s so much to see in Venice you should really give yourself 2 or 3 days to do it justice. After 3 days, I find the crowds a bit jarring and have always preferred to see Venice in small doses. Once you’ve wandered through Piazza San Marco, taken a gondola tour (you must do this!), visited the Doge’s palace, had an Aperol Spritz and some cicchetti (the Venetian version of tapas), you should really just let yourself wander. There are churches around every corner that may look plain from the outside, but most likely hold incredible beauty. Go in quietly and light a candle, sit in the cool, dark solitude and just be grateful in the moment. You are in Venice.

STAY

I’ve stayed in a few areas in Venice. I like to be away from the Piazza San Marco area as I prefer a quieter area at night.

I really like Hotel Moresco. Located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood and really close to the train station, it was easy to get in and out of Venice if you’re planning to take the train to other destinations. It’s a charming hotel, on a side canal. We were lucky enough to have a room with a balcony where my husband loved to sit at night and smoke cuban cigars. When we were there, they had a daily “happy hour” with cocktails, wines and typical Venetian cicchetti. The staff was really helpful and eager to make recommendations, provide maps, arrange transportation.

I also love to stay in Airbnb’s. We found a really lovely 2 bdrm/1 bath flat with lovely decor and a washer and dryer in the basement (!). Look for the Monkey House Airbnb in Venice. The only monkeys we saw were the quirky art in the rooms. It had a well-equipped kitchen / dining area, modern updated bathroom and was in a great area: Campo Santa Margherita. This is one you should pre-arrange transportation to as it’s not easy to find. The area is lovely and once you get your bearings you’ll love it.

TRAVEL TIPS

Don’t go to Venice in the summer. It’s crowded and hot and it’s just not the ideal time to visit. Tourists are packed into the tiny warren of alleyways like sardines.

Get the exact physical address of your hotel or Airbnb and save the directions on your phone. If possible, pre-arrange transfer from the train station or airport to your lodging. I am a seasoned traveler and on my recent trip, we spent over an hour wandering behind an “official baggage handler”, over bridges and back, around in an endless series of what felt like circles, only to discover we were close to our lodging but couldn’t find out exactly where it was. Never will I ever do that again. It started the trip on a frustrating note. Pre-arrange transport or be very chill and enjoy the sites as you follow your baggage. I just felt bad for the baggage guy!

Don’t overpack. You’ll see this as a recurring theme across all my posts. Even if you have someone helping with your bags, you will most likely be walking across many bridges to get to your accommodation. This is an added complexity that you just don’t encounter in many other cities. Usually you can get a taxi and they can drop you at your door. That is not the case in Venice, unless you’re lucky enough to be staying at one of the cool hotels on the canal. And sometimes even if you’re on the water, the taxi can’t just stop in some random place to let you off. Moral of the story–don’t overpack. I aim for 1 carry-on suitcase and 1 personal item (tote with my purse tucked inside it). I don’t always succeed but simplify your life and pack light. Or mentally prepare accordingly.

Wear comfortable shoes. Venice is all hard surfaces, stairs and moving from solid to slippery surfaces (like a boat). I wore a cute pair of ballet flats the first night in Venice that tore up my feet. The rest of the 2 week trip was spent wrapping my toes in gauze and putting some type of buffer between my shoes and my toes.

Wander around. Ditch your map. You’ll discover so much more. Eat at the little side street cafes or a great crepe place! My son and his fiance highly recommend Creperia Artiginale Casteo.