Market day in Provence

One of my favorite hill-towns in Provence is Lourmarin. Listed as “one of the most beautiful villages in France”, it’s nestled somewhere in Le Petit Luberon, which feels more like mountains than hills to a Texan. You’ll need to rent a car but the drive is beautiful and the winding roads lead you to a village set amongst vineyards, olive groves and almond trees.

Friday is market day in Lourmarin which makes it a bargain hunters paradise. I love walking through the scarf vendors, gazing at the mouthwatering fruit displays, sniffing and tasting cheeses in all colors of the rainbow, nibbling on squash blossoms stuffed with herbs and cheese. Graze a little, shop a little. Once the market’s done, browse the small specialty shops on the winding cobbled streets. Lourmarin is the perfect place to get lost. Turn the corner onto a lane where fresh laundry waves in the breeze from window to window and buildings are so close only a pedestrian can pass through. Cats sun on a doorstep and seem undisturbed by your presence. An occasional local scurries by with her sensible shoes and bag full of daily provisions–some bread, vine-ripe tomatoes and cheese. What more could you possibly need? Life feels simpler here–more abundant, less hurried.

Provence has a Tuscany vibe. The locals are friendly and unobtrusive. They’re helpful if you ask and most speak at least a bit of English if you’re not daring enough to try a few French phrases. The best pasta carbonara I ever had was in Lourmarin. Maybe it was the company of friends, may it was the gorgeous, sunny but slightly cool October day. Maybe it was the rose’. The pasta came with a coddled egg yolk on top and grated local cheese. The pasta was plump and had a drizzle of olive oil. How could something so simple, be so sinful, so decadent? It was all I could do not to clean the bowl with a swipe of crusty bread (well maybe I did).

That memory is etched on my mind forever. The table stacked with our collection of wine glasses. Small bites shared all around. The way we were able to just pull tables together on the cobbled street. Children laughing and running up and down the lane, while their parents had some wine and relaxed at a table in the sun. The French bulldog sitting on a tufted chair in the dining room eating nibbles from it’s master. Get out and see the world. It’s amazing.

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